In Conversation with Winemaker Helen Masters

In Conversation with Winemaker Helen Masters

A Q&A on rhythm, roots and life in wine country.

For more than two decades, Helen has built a life anchored to the seasons: early mornings among the vines, long harvest days when the winery becomes home, and quieter stretches spent sharing Ata Rangi’s story with wine lovers around the world. She and her husband Ben tend their own small block, Masters Vineyard. Here family life, work and land fold together in a way that feels both humble and deeply intentional.
Outside the winery, you’ll find her in the garden, walking the property with pets in tow, or slipping across the lawn to the conveniently located Pilates studio located on the property. Curious, hands-on and endlessly grounded by the Wairarapa landscape, Helen’s world is one where community, craft and the changing light shape every day.


Kate — Helen, you’re a globally revered winemaker, wearing many different hats — let alone your Davaar vest! What does a day in the life of a winemaker look like for you?

Helen — Everyday can be so diverse, it will generally involve working with the vineyard team, checking in on the wines and answering a lot of emails. Winemaking wise - the most activity is at harvest time which, in NZ, is March to May. At harvest it never stops, we live at the winery pretty much. During the quieter times in the winery I might be showing our wines to visitors, or traveling to one of our 28 overseas markets to tell our story to wine buyers, sommeliers and wine lovers.


Kate — You’ve called Martinborough in the Wairarapa home for many years. You’ve
raised your children here. What is it about this place that keeps you grounded here?

Helen — The wine and farming communities sit well together side by side. The sense that the land provides and the weather gives and takes, maintains a level of grounding that is unique to primary industries. The change of season and the rhythm that it brings is amplified with vineyard life. The dormancy of the vines during winter, the green buds pushing through in spring to the full canopy of leaf and fruit in summer and autumn. Our house is situated on the vineyard, so our children have grown up with helping out.
Wine towns have the extra benefit that there are enough people coming to the region for wine tourism that it is able to sustain more great eating spots than a normal town of its size. I’m guilty of hardly ever getting over the hill to Wellington, we have so many good options locally.


Kate —
You and your husband Ben tend your own vines together — can you share a little bit about your life at Masters Vineyard, the routine, the environment?

Helen — We are lucky enough to have 2.1 hectare of our own vines on the property where we live. These vines make a single vineyard wine called Masters which sits within the Ata Rangi family of wines. Ben my husband does most of the day-to-day work on the vines, I get to go out in the evening afterwork in summer and pitch in along with our kids when they are back over summer break. This is not as romantic as it sounds! No long white linen frocks like the movies but very satisfying.


Kate —
Outside of wine, where do you find joy? Is there a ritual, a place, or even something as simple as a favourite meal that resets you?

Helen — We are lucky enough to have friends who run a Pilates studio on our property, so I meander across the lawn to the studio and get a workout that always clears the head.


Kate —
We love gardening and understand you’re a keen home gardener too. How has the garden developed and what do you love growing right now?

Helen — Our garden brings a lot of joy and for its size a lot of fresh veggies and herbs. The smart thing we did was create some formal structures, hedges and paths within which we plant flowers together with the vegies, The formal structures save it from all looking too chaotic, so even when the silverbeet has gone to seed it still looks somewhat planned.


Kate —
Martinborough seems to draw creative people. What do you think it is about small towns that attract that kind of energy?

Helen — We are lucky to have Wellington just over an hour away, this has meant quite a
diverse group of people have moved here. Some commuting but a lot working from home as artists, filmmakers and writers. Wine has a special kind of pull, it has the ability to bring people together.


Kate —
You recently supported a dinner I hosted in Auckland with some incredible sparkling wine, thank you for that. Ata Rangi has grown and made wine organically for years now — how has that philosophy filtered beyond the vineyard and into how you live day to day?

Helen — Our whole property is organic; this takes a mind shift into how you think about weeds. Weeds are plants, just not as orderly and pretty as the ones we are used to. Not worrying about having the garden controlled and manicured brings the freedom to enjoy it more. We have chickens and raise pigs for meat, so we know the source of our food.


Kate — 
When you’re travelling for tastings or markets overseas, what do you find yourself missing most about home?

Helen — I miss the outdoor space, to be able to wander with the cats and dog following along.


Kate —
Is there a wine, from anywhere in the world, that completely blew your mind and reminded you why you fell in love with winemaking in the first place?

Helen — Gosh I am constantly reminded of why I fell in love with this life. Every country I go to has the most amazing people giving their all to craft wines that are a deep reflection of life around them. Sharing wine, with fellow winemakers in their place is one of my joys in life.


Kate —
Having the right tools for the trade is important. In wine I suspect it ranges
from good sturdy boots to the right glassware. You chose the Davaar 515 — the versatile vest. Can you explain what about that particular piece appealed to you?

Helen — I love vests, the freedom of no sleeves makes it easier for me to not get as dirty, and I think they look great!!


Kate —
When friends visit Martinborough, where do you take them for a moment that sums up what you love about this place?

Helen — The south coast is wild and uncompromising, but on a still day stunning.


Kate —
What’s the best piece of advice you’ve received that’s stayed with you through the seasons?

Helen — Ask questions, be curious, and be prepared to work hard. My dad lived this way and he was man who lived his life without worrying what other people thought, he was completely himself. I admire that.

Helen Masters, Winemaker at Ata Rangi Martinborough
@helenmastersmartinborough
@ata_rangi
atarangi.co.nz